The Art of Gem-Setting at Rolex

THE ART OF GEM-SETTING AT ROLEX

Diamond watches are almost ubiquitous these days but many of what we see are usually aftermarket pieces – that is, branded timepieces that have been adorned by jewelers.

Rolex diamond watches are a cut above the rest because of the stringent process they go through right inside the Rolex factory. They go through the hands of Rolex’s in-house gemologists and gem-setters, who are trained in the art of high jewelry.
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The process begins with the selection of the highest quality gemstones, which are analyzed by the gemologists based on their cut, clarity, color, and number of carats.

Rolex’s rigorous testing process relies on state-of-the-art equipment as much as it does on human expertise. Qualitative analysis is performed on the gemstones, with each diamond and gemstone subject to the same criteria.

Once the gems have been chosen, the gemologists work together with designers and engineers to map out the layout of the diamonds and to prepare, to the smallest micron, the metal on which the stone will be set.

Finally, with hands as skilled as watchmakers’, every stone, one by one, is set into the watches. A close look at Rolex diamond watches reveal the uniformity of each stone and their flawless alignment on the timepiece.

WHAT KIND OF DIAMONDS DOES ROLEX USE.

It should come as no surprise that Rolex uses only the finest diamonds on their watches. There is a standard grading system for diamonds used by organizations like the GIA (Gemological Institute of America), where stones are inspected using specialized equipment and rated for four qualities: cut, color, clarity, and carat.

The cut of the diamond is rated based on how well proportioned each facet of the stone is, and how these proportions affect the diamond’s ability to capture light.

The carat is a simple measurement of a diamond’s weight. When analyzing a diamond’s carat, grading organizations use an extremely accurate electronic machine to weigh diamonds to their fifth decimal place.

Color is a measurement of how colorless a diamond is. There is actually a range of colors even within the white diamond family. Diamonds are graded on a scale of D (completely colorless) to Z (lightly colored). Rolex uses only the most colorless of diamonds – those that belong to the highest ranges of D to G.

Clarity refers to the purity of the diamond, internally and externally. As diamonds are natural materials, it is natural for some of them to have impurities. Internal flaws are called ‘inclusions’, while external flaws are referred to as ‘blemishes’. Only diamonds that are at least IF (internally flawless) in quality pass Rolex’s standards. To get this rating, a diamond must have no inclusions or blemishes, even when viewed under a 10x microscope.

DIAMOND-SETTING TECHNIQUES

Rolex uses four traditional setting techniques to secure the diamonds and highlight their intense sparkle.

‘Bead’ setting is a technique for setting stone directly onto metal, through concave depressions the same size as the stone. This technique is used for brilliant-cut diamonds and creates the close-knit pavé look that most people are familiar with.

Closed’ setting is used for round diamonds, where a metal band encircles the rock to hold it in place.

Channel’ setting is most commonly used for baguette-cut diamonds, where stones of the same size are placed along a track between two walls of the metal. This technique is often seen in ultra high-end Rolex watches with baguette bezels.

Finally, there is the ‘claw’ setting technique, where the gem is held in place by tiny slivers or ‘claws’ of metals around the corners of the stone. This is commonly used for faceted diamonds and secures the stone in place in an unobtrusive manner.

Rolex’s impeccable process strikes a balance between aesthetics and technique, therefore bringing out the inherent beauty of diamonds. Explore our wide selection of original Rolex factory diamond watches at SwissWatchExpo.com.